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The 17th century fortress of Quelang: past, present and future

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圖 一   「 女 子 服 裝 的 改 良」徵文首選的第 一個附圖。  出處:《婦女雜誌》第七卷第 九號(1921, 9),頁 40。  時胸圍要比腰圍大時,卻成為中國「平面直裁」服飾傳統中震聾 發瞶的一件大事。千年以來強調「寬衣博帶」的中國傳統服飾,似乎一直要等到了二十世紀才終於出現了胸圍、腰圍與臀圍的曲線概念。2而這篇首選徵文除了文字之外,還附有三張圖說。在第一個附圖中(圖一),首選作者以英文字母標示出胸圍、腰圍與臀圍的位置,並將左手邊「正面」的紙繪人模,旋轉九十度,成為右手邊「側面」的紙繪人模,而左右
圖 二   「 女 子 服 裝 的 改 良」徵文首選的 第二個附圖。  出處:《婦女雜誌》第七卷第 九號(1921, 9),頁 40。 圖三: 「女子服裝的改良」 徵文首選的第三個 附圖。  出處:《婦女雜誌》第七卷第 九號(1921, 9),頁 40。命名之。對徵文首選作者而言,直線女裝改良為曲線女裝的重大關鍵,就在於「腰圍」的出現。 雖然以當代的後見之明,我們可以輕易舉指出此「曲線型」改良女裝的重大盲點:此曲線仍是以「平面剪裁」的方式達成。其中出現了兩大矛盾。其一是首選作者注意到了襟縫與背縫的「直線」而

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