物理性去屑洗髮精配方之光澤度研究 (The Glossiness Study of Physical Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Formulation)

(1)

物理性去屑洗髮精配方之光澤度研究

The Glossiness Study of Physical Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

Formulation

尤善臻1_，吳錦生2*_，邱上益3 1_{中國醫藥大學藥用化妝品學系助理教授} 2_{中國醫藥大學藥用化妝品學系副教授} 3_{中國醫藥大學藥用化妝品學系學生} 摘要承接先前多項含矽藻土之物理性去屑洗髮精之配方研究，已探討如何調配出含有做為濁白劑(Opacifier)/珠光劑(pearl agent)之 EGMS 且清潔力佳、安定性佳之配方。然而，含有珠光劑且清潔力佳而安定的配方卻不一定擁有能吸引顧客的珍珠光澤外觀。因此本研究將探討添加界面活性劑助劑(Co-surfactant)及柔潤劑(Emollient)等在配方中如何與清潔主劑 SLES、SLS 配伍而影響含珠光劑 EGMS 洗髮精之光澤度。目的是開發出擁有極佳的珠光效果外觀，能有效吸引顧客洗髮產品。本實驗以光澤度計(Gloss meter)來測量數十種配方之光澤度，以比較出擁有最亮麗之洗髮精配方。其中以使用 SLS 作為清潔主劑明顯較使用 SLES 作為清潔主劑之光澤度來的高。助劑則以添加 Tween 20 之洗髮精配方光澤度最高。關鍵字：洗髮精(Shampoo)，界面活性劑助劑(Co-surfactant)，珠光劑(Pearl agent)，光澤度(Glossiness)

After previous studies regarding the physical dandruff shampoo containing diatomaceous earth using EGMS as an opacifier/pearlescent agent, the formulation having better cleaning efficiency and stability has been investigated. However, these efficient and stable

formulations containing pearlescent agent do not necessarily present an attracting pearl luster appearance.

Therefore, this study will evaluate how the addition of co-surfactant and emollient into formulations can affect the glossiness of shampoo formulations containing pearlescent EGMS using SLES or SLS as main cleaning agent. The goal is to find an attractive shampoo

formulation which has the most pearl luster appearance.

In this study, glossmeter is used to quantify the glossiness or gloss intensity of dozens formulations to find the most shiny shampoo. Among these shampoos, which using the SLS possess more glossary than which using SLES as main cleansing agent. Moreover the most glossiness was obtained from shampoo with addition of Tween 20.

(2)

1.前言 坊間去屑洗髮精大多採用化學性的去屑或抗屑成份，像是較具刺激性的果酸 (AHA，BHA)成分，易有抗藥性的克多可那挫（ketoconazole），氣味不佳的焦油(Polytar)以及具對海洋生物具毒性的 ZPT 吡啶硫酮鋅金屬鹽類1_{等。承接先前} 物理性去頭皮屑洗髮精之配方研究，已探討如何調配出含有天然多孔隙磨砂顆粒矽藻土之去屑洗髮精，可藉物理性方式溫和地去除頭皮屑，有效潔淨去菌，不會刮傷頭皮與頭髮的安定性之配方2_。然而，為了修飾矽藻土所造成的半透明灰白色外觀，先前，已嘗試加入濁白劑(Opacifier) 乙二醇單硬脂酸酯

Ethylene Glycol Monostearate (EGMS)的配

方以提供產品亮白色澤3_{，並探討如何調} 配出清潔力佳、安定性佳不分層之含矽藻土顆粒去頭皮屑洗髮精之配方4_。但清潔力佳而白濁層安定的配方卻不一定擁有最亮麗能吸引顧客的珠光外觀。為增加美觀所添加的EGMS 可用作濁白劑、遮光劑珠光劑、增稠劑、乳化劑及黏度調節劑 5,6,7,8_{，一般能提供產品亮白色澤，但是如} 果要呈現出珠光色澤，必需配方及工藝條件適合，才能在配方中析出具有珍珠光澤的顆粒，以賦與洗髮精液體呈現柔和而層次豐富的珍珠光澤。因此本研究將已專利之含天然多孔性磨砂顆粒之物理性去頭皮屑洗髮精8_，深入探討如何調配出具有最佳珍珠光澤之配方。本研究將比較添加以陰離子型界面活性劑SLES、SLS 做主劑之含矽藻土去屑洗髮精，其中的界面活性劑助劑(Co-surfactant)及等在配方中如何與珠光劑配伍而影響洗髮精配方外觀之珠光效果，並以光澤度計測量光澤度。 2.實驗材料 以SLES 70%液劑及 SLS 100%粉劑為主要之陰離子界面活性劑，珠光劑EGMS、非離子界面活性劑 Span20、Span40、Span60、Tween20、Tween 40、Tween60、coco MEA、coco DEA、兩性

界面活性劑Cocamidopropyl betaine、柔潤

劑 Shea butter 、 Lauric acid 、 Myristic acid、Oleic acid、Stearic acid、矽藻土 Celite 545 皆購買自 Nihon Shiyaku Reagent (Japan)。 3.研究方法及步驟 1. 洗髮精配方組成及實驗步驟方法：用 32 個配方，總重是 10g，依照比例 (表一)依序調配，其步驟為將各項精準稱重後至加熱板加熱至90℃攪拌溶解，均勻溶解後補足熱水至10g，之後倒入試管中。在做完每一個配方後在試管上做標記依下述代碼為主。其配方如(表一)。因 SLES 純原料為 70%之液劑含 30%水份，所以使用SLS 做配方時亦需加 30%水來對照SLES 之純原料。故得表中 SLES 系列配方中SLES 純原料佔配方 20%w/w 時，相對之SLS 系列配方中 SLS 粉劑應佔配方14%w/w 並需補水 6%於配方中。

(3)

表一、添加不同界面活性劑助劑之洗髮精基劑配伍

樣品主劑純水珠光劑物理去屑劑助劑 Control SLES 20% H2O 50% EGMS 10% Celite20%

1 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 20 20% 2 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 40 20% 3 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 60 20% 4 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 20 20% 5 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 40 20% 6 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 60 20% 7 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Lauric acid 20% 8 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Myristic acid20% 9 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Oleic acid 20% 10 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Stearic acid 20% 11 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Shea butter 20% 12 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco MEA 20% 13 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco DEA 20% 14 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Fatty betaine20% 15 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Control SLS 20% H2O 50% EGMS 10% Celite20%

16 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 20 20% 17 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 40 20% 18 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 60 20% 19 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 20 20% 20 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 40 20% 21 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 60 20% 22 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Lauric acid 20% 23 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Myristic acid20% 24 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Oleic acid 20% 25 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Stearic acid 20% 26 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Shea butter 20% 27 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco MEA 20% 28 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco DEA 20% 29 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Fatty betaine20% 30 SLS 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20%

2. 洗髮精光澤度測量原理9,10,11,12_：光澤度(Gloss)是一種光學特性，呈現物件表面對光的反射能力，光澤度單位通常介於0-100 GU(Gloss Unit)，這是將「標準黑片」反射值1567 定義為 100 GU，而非光澤度的百分比值。所以可用光澤度計來評估洗髮精配方外觀之珠光效果。光澤度以75 度測角之光澤度計開始檢測，若讀值介於10-70 GU 之間，代表中光澤；若光澤度計之讀值<10 GU，屬於低光澤樣本；若讀值>70 GU, 屬於高光澤樣本。圖一、光澤度計(Gloss meter)

圖二、鏡面反射(Specularly reflected light) 和漫反射(Diffuse reflection)(作者自繪) 3.洗髮精光澤度之檢測步驟： A.打開光澤度計之開關，並確認電源是否充足，以免影響光線之投射，而影響光澤度計所測量出之數值。 B.使用光澤度計標準板歸零，並以左側旋鈕確定數值是否正確。 C.使用 Micropipette 精確量取 0.2g 洗髮精配方至載體上。 D.均勻使洗髮精配方安置於載體上，避免移動或搖晃。 E.謹慎使用光澤度瞄準載體，使所有投射光線能完全投射於載體上之洗髮精配方 F.重複測量三次洗髮精配方，並記錄。 4.結果與討論 ψ Incident light Specularly reflected light Diffuse reflection 樣品主劑純水珠光劑物理去屑劑助劑

Control SLES 20% H2O 50% EGMS 10% Celite20%

1 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 20 20% 2 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 40 20% 3 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 60 20% 4 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 20 20% 5 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 40 20% 6 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 60 20% 7 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Lauric acid 20% 8 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20%Myristic acid20% 9 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Oleic acid 20% 10 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20%Stearic acid 20% 11 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Shea butter 20% 12 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco MEA 20% 13 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco DEA 20% 14 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20%Fatty betaine20% 15 SLES 20% H2O 30% EGMS 10% Celite20% Control SLS 14% H2O 50% EGMS 10% Celite20%

16 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 20 20% 17 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 40 20% 18 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Span 60 20% 19 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 20 20% 20 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 40 20% 21 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Tween 60 20% 22 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Lauric acid 20% 23 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20%Myristic acid20% 24 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Oleic acid 20% 25 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20%Stearic acid 20% 26 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Shea butter 20% 27 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco MEA 20% 28 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20% Coco DEA 20% 29 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20%Fatty betaine20% 30 SLS 14% H2O 36% EGMS 10% Celite20%

(4)

SLS 之系列配方中其光澤度平均值高低排列為：Tween 20 (83.2) > Tween 40 (47.5) > Coco DEA (37.9) > Coco MEA (25.5) > Span 40 (24.0) > Tween 60 (19.1) > Shea butter(14.0) > Myristic acid (8.1) > Stearic acid (7.7) > Oleic acid (4.0) > Span 20 (3.1) > Fatty betaine (2.2) > Lauric acid (1.1) > Span 60 (0.9) (表二)。

SLES 之系列配方中其光澤度平均值

高低排列為：Tween 40 (30.1) > Span 60

(11.5) > Coco DEA (10.9) > Myristic acid (7.4) > Coco MEA (6.8) > Tween 20 (6.6) > Span 40 (6.1) > Stearic acid (5.5) > Tween 60 (4.2) > Oleic acid (2.8) > Span 20 (2.0) > Fatty betaine (1.8) = Shea butter(1.8) > Lauric acid (1.3) (表二)。 5.結論 由此前述研究結果可知，使用 SLS 作為清潔主劑明顯較使用SLES 作為清潔主劑之光澤度來的高許多而使整體配方看起來更亮麗、更吸引人。在本研究SLS 系列配方中，SLS 與清潔助劑 Tween 20 之洗髮精配方光澤度最高；而SLS 與清潔助劑Span 60 之洗髮精配方光澤度表現最低。 SLES 系列配方中除了對照組光澤度最高以外，以SLES 與清潔助劑 Tween 40 配伍之洗髮精配方光澤度最高；而SLES 與清潔助劑 Lauric acid 之洗髮精配方光澤度表現最低。表二、洗髮精配方光澤度測量值： (光澤度之讀值10-70 GU之間為中光澤，若讀值<10 GU為低光澤，屬於樣本；若讀值>70 GU為高光澤。) 4.參考文獻

1. Bellas J., (2005). Toxicity assessment of the antifouling compound zinc pyrithione using early developmental stages of the ascidian Ciona

intestinalis. Biofouling.;21(5-6):289-96.

2. 尤善臻*，天然磨砂去屑洗髮精之創

新(Innovation of a Natural Abrasive

樣品(皆含 EGMS 10%、矽藻土 20%) 光澤度(測量三次) 光澤度平均 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Tween20 20% 84.1 83.0 82.5 83.2 SLES 20%+H2O 50% 58.7 59.0 59.1 58.9 SLS 14%+H2O 36% 58.6 58.6 58.6 58.6 SLS 14%+H2O 56% 55.6 55.3 55.2 55.4 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Tween40 20% 47.8 47.4 47.3 47.5 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Coco DEA 20% 37.7 37.9 38.1 37.9 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Tween40 20% 29.8 30.1 30.3 30.1 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Coco MEA 20% 25.4 25.5 25.5 25.5 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Span40 20% 23.8 24.1 24.1 24.0 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Tween60 20% 19.1 19.1 19.1 19.1 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Shea butter 20% 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.0 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Span60 20% 11.4 11.5 11.5 11.5 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Coco DEA 20% 10.8 10.9 11.0 10.9 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Myristic acid 20% 8.1 8.1 8.1 8.1 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Stearic acid 20% 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Myristic acid 20% 7.4 7.4 7.5 7.4 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Coco MEA 20% 6.8 6.8 6.8 6.8 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Tween20 20% 6.5 6.6 6.7 6.6 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Span40 20% 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Stearic acid 20% 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Tween60 20% 4.1 4.2 4.2 4.2 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Oleic acid 20% 4.0 3.9 4.0 4.0 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Span20 20% 3.1 3.2 3.1 3.1 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Oleic acid 20% 2.8 2.8 2.9 2.8 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Fatty betaine20% 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Span20 20% 2.0 2.0 1.9 2.0 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Fatty betaine20% 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Shea butter 20% 1.8 1.8 1.7 1.8

SLES 20%+H2O 30% 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7

SLES 20%+H2O 30%+Lauric acid 20% 1.3 1.3 1.2 1.3 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Lauric acid 20% 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 SLS 14%+H2O 36%+Span60 20% 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9

(5)

Antidandruff Shampoo)，美容科技學刊，2011 Apr，8(1):83-94

3. 楊于萱,尤善臻*，2010 年中華民國

界面科學學會年會暨論文發表會， The compatibility between pearling agent and surfactant in cosme tics 珠光劑與化妝品中界面活性劑之相容性 4. 曾鈺娥，尤善臻*，(2011)，含矽藻土之去屑洗髮精配方穩定之研究，國科會學生計畫報告NSC 99-2815-C-039-046-B 5. 尤善臻，(2011)，頭髮清潔組合物，發明專利，台灣，I351433

6. John Carson and Kevin F. Gallagher, (1999), Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, CHAPTER 6 Emollient Esters and Oils Conditioning Agents For Hair And Skin, Vol. 1,

PUBLISHER: Taylor & Francis, Inc.,111-138 7. Philippe Maillan：能防止紫外線引起的降解並增加頭髮光澤度的原料— 聚矽氧烷-15，The International Magazine Of Cosmetic Technology，2005，第二期。

8. Anthony J.O ,_{Lenick,Jr.：界面活性劑}

的性能:調理，The International

Magazine Of Cosmetic

Technology，2005，第二期。

9. Ricardo Villalobos, Jorge Chanona, Pilar Hernández, Gustavo Gutiérrez, Amparo Chiralt, (2005), Gloss and transparency of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose films containing surfactants as affected by their microstructure, Food Hydrocolloids, Volume 19, Issue 1, 53-61

10. Filiz Yalcin, Sevil Gürgan, (2005), Effect of two different bleaching regimens on the gloss of tooth colored restorative materials Original Research Article, Dental Materials, Volume 21, Issue 5, 464-468

11. Maria José Fabra, Pau Talens, Amparo Chiralt, (2009), Microstructure and optical properties of sodium caseinate films containing oleic acid–beeswax mixtures, Food Hydrocolloids, Volume 23, Issue 3, 676-683

12. Wayne M. Bundy, Joseph N. Ishley, (1991), Kaolin in paper filling and coating, Applied Clay Science, Volume 5, Issues 5–6, 397-420

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

(10)

(11)