輔仁大學織品服裝研究所第 96 學年度課程綱要■

輔仁大學織品服裝研究所第 96 學年度課程綱要

■ 一年級

■ 二年級 ■ 甲組 □ 乙組 ■ 上學期

□ 下學期

□ 1 學分 ▓ 2 學分

□ 3 學分 □必修 ■選修

每週授課堂數 2

課程名稱 流行理論 ■每週 □單週 □雙週

授課教師 鄭靜宜 ^時間 （三）10:10-12:00 教室 TC 202

課程目標(專業、人格發展)：

1. To investigate in depth, the primary concepts and theoretical perspectives related to fashion and the fashion process.

2. To provide examples for each of the concepts and theoretical perspectives.

3. To relate the concepts and theoretical perspectives to applied situations.

4. To analyze and synthesize research related to one of the concepts and theoretical perspectives in a more in-depth manner.

授課方式：講課、討論 評分方式：

1. Class participation and discussion 20%

2. Class journal 20%

3. Reading abstracts, plan and conduct a seminar discussion 20%

4. Theory analysis paper or Fashion theory research topic (Oral and Written) 40%

週

次 月 日 預定授課題目及課程內容 作業或報告

一 9 19

二 9 26

OVERVIEW OF FASHION THEORY

1. Definition of Fashion

1. Hurlock, E. B. (1929, 1984 reprint). The psychology of dress: An analysis of fashion and its motive (pp. 3-12). Salem, New Hampshire: Ayer Company, Publishers, Inc.

2. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

Chapter 1 (pp.1-29)

3. 流行溝通：第一章(Fashion as communication: Cpt. 1)

三 10 3

2. Theoretical Overview

1. Sproles, G. B. (1985). Behavioral science theories of fashion. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.).

The Psychology of Fashion (pp. 55-70).

Lexington: D. C. Heath/Lexington Books.

四 10 10

五 10 17

SOCIOLOGICAL THEORIES 1. Imitation-differentiation

perspective (“Trickle down”

Theory, Upper-Class Leadership Theory)

5. Emery, J. S. (2001). Dress like a star. Dress, 28, 92-99.

1. McCracken, G. D. (1985). The trickle-down theory rehabilitated. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.). The Psychology of Fashion (pp. 39- 54). Lexington: D. C. Heath/Lexington Books.

2. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

pp.110-116

3. 流行溝通：第五章(Fashion as communication, Cpt. 5, 6)

4. 李玉瑛(1999). 實現你的明星夢—台灣婚 紗照的消費文化分析. 台灣社會研究季 刊, 36, 147-186.

六 10 24

2. Collective Selection Theory (Mass Production and Distribution)

1. Sproles, G. B. & Burns, L. D. (1994). Cpt.

7. (pp. 161-169).

2. Blumer, H. (1969). Fashion: From class differentiation to collective selection. The Sociological Quarterly, 10, 275-291.

七 10 31 3.

1. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994). pp.

123-126

2. 流行溝通：第六章(Fashion as communication, Cpt. 6)

3. 寫真集 4. 仿冒品

八 11 7

ECONOMIC THEORIES AND MODELS

1. Robinson, D. E. (1961). The economics of fashion demand. The Quarterly Journal of Economics, 75, 376-398.

2. Ad: 時尚是禁慾的敵人

九 11 14

HISTORICAL CONTINUITY MODEL

1. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

Chapter 2 (pp.31-68)

2. Young, A. B. (1937). Recurring Cycles of Fashion, 1760 - 1937. New York: Harper and Brothers. Chapter 1, 12

3. Lowe, E. D. (1993). Quantitative analysis of fashion change: A critical review. Home Economics Research Journal, 21(3), 280- 306.

十 11 21

INNOVATION-DECISION PROCESS AND DIFFISSION MODEL

1. The Diffusion and Innovation Theory 2. Fashion Life Cycles

1. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

Chapter 3 (pp.69-92)

2. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

Chapter 4 (pp.93-108)

3. Rogers, E. M. (1976). New product adoption and diffusion. Journal of Consumer Research, 2, 290-301.

十

一 11 28

BUSINESS AND MARKETING THEORIES

1. Mass Market Theory (Trickle- across)

1. Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994).

pp.117-122.

2. Grindereng, M. P. (1967). Fashion

diffusion. Journal of Home Economics, 59, 171-174.

十

二 12 5

2. Consumer Fashion Leaders

3. Goldsmith, R.E., Moore, M. A., &

Beaudoin, P. (1999). Fashion innovativeness and self- concept: a replication. Journal of Product and Brand Management, 8(1), 7-18

1. Goldsmith, R.E., Flynn, L.R., &

Moore, M.A. (1996). The self- concept of fashion leaders. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 14(4), 242-248.

2. Beaudoin, P., Moore, M. A., & Goldsmith, R.E. (1998). Young fashion leaders’ and followers’ attitudes toward American and imported apparel. Journal of Product and Brand Management, 7(3), 193-207.

十

三 12 12

PSYCHOLOGICAL PERSPECTIVES

1. Psycholanalytic Theory (Sexual Symbolism of Clothing, Fetishism, Theory of the Shifting Erogenous Zones)

2. Self-concept Theory

4. 趙彥寧（1997）。性、性意識及身體建 構－形塑台灣女同性戀的身體美學。性別 研究的新視野－第一屆四性研討會論文 集。台北：元尊文化。

1. Steele, V. (1985). Fashion and eroticism:

The psychoanalytic approach. In Fashion and Eroticism (pp. 24-38). New York:

Oxford University Press.

2. Steele, V. (1985). A new theory of fashion:

Sexual beauty and the ideal self. In Fashion and Eroticism (pp. 39-50). New York:

Oxford University Press.

3. Metrosexuals（都會性別人）

十

四 12 19

SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGICAL PERSPECTIVES

1. Back, K. W. (1985). Modernism and fashion: A social psychological

interpretation. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.), The psychology of fashion (pp. 3-14).

Lexington: D. C. Heath/Lexington Books.

2. Modernism vs. Traditionism

3. Postmodernism,流行溝通：第七章

十

五 12 26

SEMIOTICS/

COMMUNICATION PERSPECTIVES

1. Davis, F. (1985). Clothing and fashion as communication. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.), The psychology of fashion (pp. 15-27).

Lexington: D. C. Heath/Lexington Books.

2. 流行溝通：第四章 3. 流行語彙

十六

1 2

SYMBOLIC INTERACTION PERSPECTIVES

3. Nagasawa, R. H., Kaiser, S. B., &

Hutton, S. S. (1996). Construction of an SI theory of fashion: Part 3. Context of explanation. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 14(1), 54-62.

1. Kaiser, S. B., Nagasawa, R. H., & Hutton, S.

S. (1995). Construction of an SI theory of fashion: Part 1. Ambivalence and change.

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 13(3), 172-183.

2. Nagasawa, R. H., Kaiser, S. B., & Hutton, S.

S. (1995). Construction of an SI theory of fashion: Part 2. From discovery to

formalization. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 13(4), 234-244.

十七

1 9

Chapter, 12, pp. 283-299

十八

1 16

Sproles, G. B., & Burns, L. D. (1994). Changing appearances: Understanding dress in contemporary society.

New York: Fairchild Publications.

巴納爾（Barnard, M.）著（2004）。流行溝通（Fashion as communication）（鄭靜宜譯）。台北市：桂冠。

（原作 2002 年出版）

Supplements:

Solomon, M. R. (1985) (Ed.). The psychology of fashion. Lexington, MA: Lexington Books/D. C. Health and Company.

Hurlock, E. B. (1929, 1984 reprint). The psychology of dress: An analysis of fashion and its motive. Salem, New Hampshire: Ayer Company, Publishers, Inc.

弗留葛爾（Flugel, J. C.）著（1991）。服裝心理學（The psychology of clothes）。台北市：水牛。（原作 1971 年出版）

Your grade in Fashion Theory will be based on the following:

I. Participate in in-class activities and discussions (20% of the grade)

Class discussion and sharing of ideas serve as the major avenue for learning in this course. All students are expected to actively participate in each class discussion. As background for each class, students will complete assigned readings and prepare responses to discussion questions.

II. Class journal (20% of the grade)

The course journal will be a combination of reading notes, responses to discussion questions posed by the instructor, observations, comments, and questions regarding the theoretical perspectives

addressed in the course. The journal will be self-evaluated and instructor-evaluated on the following criteria:

1. commitment - entries written frequently and regularly 2. ambition - questions posed; connections drawn 3. engagement - entries reread and addressed

III. Reading abstracts, plan and conduct a seminar discussion (20% of the grade)

Each student will take turns serving as leader of discussion of readings from books or supplementary articles. On scheduled days, the student leader will turn in research abstract and plan and carry out a seminar discussion of one-hour class period. The student will be responsible for planning the discussion topic, distributing discussion questions, and leading the class session.

IV. Finals: Two options (Choose one)

（1） Theory Analysis Paper (40% of the grade)

Assignment Dates: 1/16, 2007

This course provides a multidisciplinary overview of a number of theoretical perspectives that focus on predicting and explaining fashion and the fashion process. To allow more in-depth

understanding, each student will write a formal paper on one of the theoretical perspectives listed in the course outline. Chose a perspective for the paper in which you are interested and that relates to your other scholarly pursuits. Please let me know by the third week of the course which perspective you plan to examine. I would be glad to discuss any of these theories with you as you make this decision.

This theory analysis paper should include:

1. basic premises of the theory, model, or theoretical perspectives.

2. review of past research using the theory or model for predictive and/or explanatory purposes.

3. individual analysis of the theory or model.

4. present and future use of the theory for predictive and/or explanatory purposes.

5. reference list. The reference list format will be in compliance with the Publication Manual of the American Psychological Association, fourth edition, 1994. （美國心理學學會出版手冊）

Because the course is an overview of a number of theoretical perspectives, the theory analysis paper allows students to explore in greater depth a theoretical perspective of their choice. The theory analysis paper may be turned in via electronic mail as an attached text file or as an attached Wordperfect or MSWord file.

The theory analysis paper will be graded on the following criteria (see Theory Analysis paper for a

complete description of these criteria):

1. overview of past research using the theory

2. individual analysis of the basic premises and usefulness of the theory 3. present and future use of the theory in guiding research

4. organization and presentation of the paper Reading Assignments

（2）Research Topics Involving Fashion Theory (40% of the grade)

Assignment Dates: 1/16, 2007

As you progress through the semester, identify two textiles/apparel topics warranting research using a fashion theory. These topics might involve further investigation of topic discussed in class or be entirely new avenues of investigation. For each, describe the topic, identify research questions, review the related literatures and discuss how fashion theory would contribute to further understanding of the topic.