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行政院國家科學委員會專題研究計畫 成果報告

開發可應用於化妝品的抗皮膚老化之成份及研究其分子作 用機轉

計畫類別: 個別型計畫

計畫編號: NSC91-2626-B-041-001-

執行期間: 91 年 08 月 01 日至 92 年 07 月 31 日 執行單位: 嘉南藥理科技大學藥學系

計畫主持人: 施美份

報告類型: 精簡報告

處理方式: 本計畫可公開查詢

中 華 民 國 92 年 10 月 2 日

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計劃名稱:開發可應用於化妝品的抗皮膚老化之成分及研究其分子作用機轉

NSC91-28626-B-041-001

執行期間:自民國 91 年 08 月 01 日起至民國 92 年 07 月 31 日 執行單位:嘉南藥理科技大學 藥學系

計劃主持人:施美份 助理教授

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研究計畫之背景及目的

皮膚及眼睛是人類唯一暴露到日光紫外線的部位。日光紫外線的暴露引起的皮膚 細胞的傷害,進而影響到皮膚的緊縮性及彈性,並且誘發皮膚提前老化現象:包 括有皮膚粗糙、皺紋、斑點、皮膚鬆弛、及色澤暗沉等(Gilchrest &Yaar, 1992)。

紫外線的波長可分四段:UVC (<290nm), UVB (290-320nm), UVA2 (320-340nm), and UVA1 (340-400nm)。其中 UVB 所引起的皮膚機能的傷害主要是皮膚老化及 癌症,UVA2 的穿透能力較 UV 強因此也是引起皮膚老化的主要波長之一。陽光 紫外線中的 UVC 及大部分的 UVB 在穿過大氣層時,會被臭氧層所吸收,因此

抵達地球表面的量有限(除在臭氧層有破洞的南半球)。

正常的皮膚是靠 extracellular matrix (ECM)生合成及分解的平衡維持,而 Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)則在維護 ECM remodeling 上扮演著重要角色。

Interstitial collagenase (MMP-1) 是一種 Zinc-dependent 蛋 白 質 水 解 ,可分解含 type I 及 III 膠原蛋白(collagens)的細胞外纖維。而 MMP-3 (stromelysin-1)則是負 責分解醣蛋白 proteoglycans、fibronectin 和 type III 膠原(Giambernardi et al, 1998;

Kuroda & Shinkai 1997),可以與 MMPs 的活性相抗衡的物質則是 tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMPs)。膠原蛋白約為真皮乾重的 70﹪之多。其中 type I 膠原 約佔 85﹪,type III 膠原只佔 10﹪。因此任何的因素會造成 MMPs 的活性或 TIMPs 的活性不足皆會引起皮膚的變化,如失去彈性、皺紋的產生(Uitto & Bernstein, 1998)。實驗證實抽煙也會促進皮膚的老化,其發生原因也與紫外線引起的皮膚 改變相似。當皮膚細胞的培養液中添加有煙草的萃取物時,即可發現 MMP-1 及 MMP-3 的產量及其 mRNA 會比沒有添加煙草萃取物的細胞多(Yin et al., 2000)。

但相同的處理卻對 TIMP-1 及 TIMP-3 mRNA 無影響,顯示皮膚的細胞中的 MMPs 及 TIMPs 的活性只要失去了之間的平衡,皮膚老化現象即可被引發出來。

體外試驗發現:皮膚細胞來源若來自於提前老化的細胞其生命期(lifespan)則 比同年齡未有提前老化的細胞的短(Hayflick 1965),而這種現象則與皮膚細胞來 源事來自於年紀較老的皮膚細胞相似(Gilchrest & Yaar, 1992)。紫外線引起的皮膚 改變,已知是一種氧化性傷害進而去活化及增加細胞內的 PKC 的活性,PKC 的 活性增加的結果便促進 MMPs 生合及造成膠原蛋白的分解,此一現象可藉由 Vitamin E 的抗氧化作用而達到改善(Berneburg et al, 1999)。其他的研究團體則是 證實出單一次的紫外線照射便會增加 MMP 基因的表現,而且這種現象可持續長 達 24 小時(Fisher et al., 1999),但 48-72 小時之後即可恢復至基本值。如果進行 多次的紫外線照射則會引起持續性的增加 MMP 基因的表現(此種增加可長達至

7 天之久)。紫外線照射雖然也同時增加了 TIMPs 的產量,但是增加的比率比

MMPs 的產量少而不足以阻遏 MMPs 的活性。因此,造成長期的紫外線照射易 促進皮膚老化的現象。

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綠藻是一種淡水單胞藻,在日本及台灣食用已有多年的歷史。綠藻含有多種營養 成分,如多種胺基酸,礦物質及膳食纖維等(Borowitzka, 1988; Shubert, 1988)。目 前已有許多有關綠藻的生理功能的研究,如改善糖尿病鼠的高血糖情形

( Rodriguez-Lopez M. & Lopez-Quijada 1971; 李宏圖等人 1977),降低血脂(Sano &

Tanaka, 1987;Okuda et al., 1975;Sano 等人 1988;Yang et al., 2001)提高免疫功 能(Singh et al., 1998; Tanaka et al., 1984; Tanaka et al., 1998; Konishi et al., 1996),

抑制腫瘤生長 (Singh et al., 1999; Noda et al., 1996),預防因壓力引起的潰瘍 (Tanak et al., 1997),促進動物的生長速率(Ishibashi, 1972) ,及促進因 ethionine 誘發的肝傷害的修復速度(Wang et al., 1979)。

運用綠藻的萃取物當作緩和皮膚老化在上市的化妝品已有先例,雖然產品本身標 榜具有此一功效卻無任何相關的研究報告可查證。經我們初步的實驗結果證實綠 藻粗萃取物與 MMP inducers 同時加入培養液中可減少 MMP-1 的產量(請見圖

一)。 因此,我們將利用已知的促皮膚老化的方式,即以 UVA2 照射人的皮膚的

細胞(human skin fibroblasts)或 MMPs 的誘發藥物(如 IL-1β + PDGF-BB 或 PMA)

去促進 MMPs 的生成的方式。再比較以純化後的綠藻萃取物處理後的皮膚的細 胞的 MMPs 產量來當作初步的證實。

研究方法 Materials:

1. Normal skin fibroblast— 966SK (76 years old female skin), 1059SK (20 years old female skin), 1090SK (46 years old female skin)

2. MMP-1 ELISA assay kits 3. TIMP-1 ELISA assay kits

chemicals: phorbol 12 myristate, IL-1β,PDGF-BB, Vit C, Vit E, GM6001, Isolation of extract fraction of Chlorella

UV irradiation: UVA 2 (320-340nm) radiation

Process

先利用不同年齡的皮膚細胞株先定量其之間 MMP-1, MMP-3, TIMP 的差異,再 以不同的 MMP inducers:PKC activator (e.g. 100nM phorbol 12 myristate)或 IL-1β (2ng) + PDGF-BB (10 ng)去誘發 MMP-1 及 MMP-3。定量的方法:以 enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) kits 定量 MMP-1, MMP-3, TIMP。經證實此方法的 再現性後,再進行綠藻粗萃取物的有效性的實驗,即綠藻粗萃取物可阻止 MMP inducers 對 MMP-1 及 MMP-3 的誘發的最佳劑量。此可實驗結果與 MMP inhibitors:

vitamin E (25 µM)或 C (as positive control)或 GM6001 (0.4nM)對 MMPs 的抑制能 力相比較。目前已有測量 MMP-1,MMP-3,TIMP-1 及 TIMP-3 的 ELISA kits

(Chemicon Internation)。

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接著利用 UV irradiation: UVA 2 (320-340nm) radiation 定量不同年齡的皮膚細胞 株所引發的 MMP-1, MMP-3, TIMP 的差異,再進行綠藻粗萃取物的有效性的實 驗,即綠藻粗萃取物可阻止 MMP inducers 對 MMP-1 及 MMP-3 的誘發的最佳劑 量。因為不同的 MMP inducers 及 UV irradiation 所引導的 MMP-1, MMP-3, TIMP 的差異性可能不同,因此可能導致所需的綠藻粗萃取物阻止 MMP 的誘發的最佳 劑量也不相同。

同時一併進行的尚有使用更精緻、純化的綠藻萃取物來篩選可能的成分及所 需的最佳劑量。綠藻精(1 Kg),加 95 %酒精 3 公升冷浸,過濾後所得的殘楂,

再用甲醇-氯仿溶液溶出,酒精濾液與甲醇-氯仿溶液溶出部分分別用減壓濃縮得 粗萃取物 Fr. A 與 Fr. B。粗萃取物 Fr. A 與 Fr. B 再分別進行減少 MMP 的產量實 驗。實驗顯示 Fr. B 的減少 MMP 的產量達近 100 %。Fr. B 將進行各種色層分析,

每次色層分析所得的各個分畫便進行減少 MMP 的產量實驗,以實驗的結果來當 作實驗的指標,期待分離精製到真正有減少 MMP 的產量的化合物。如 Scheme1 所示,由於粗萃取物 Fr. B 均為高極性物質,故先用 RP-18 open column

(H2O-MeOH 等)分離得到數個分畫後,再進行減少 MMP 的產量實驗,有作用的

分畫再用其他的色層分析分法,反覆分離精製,等分離到單一化合物,再利用各 種光譜分析法,如 NMR, IR, UV, MS 來決定其構造。

結果:

Figure 1: Effects of MMP1 level of Extract of Chlorella after 5 hr incubation with MMP activators

Il-1b+PDGF-BB CGF 0.2+IL-b CGF 0.15+IL-b PMA CGF 0.2+PMA CGF 0.15+PMA 0

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

Effects of hot water extract of Chlorella pyrenoidosa on production of MMP-1 in human fibroblast SK966 cell line

Incubation for 5 hours

*

*

*

*p<0.05, t-test

MMP Level (ng/mL)

MMP1 is a type of secreted proteins and its levels in cell culture medium were measured induced after incubating with its promoters (10ng PDGF-BB/2ng Il-1b and PMA). The increase was prevented by co-incubation of 0.15mg and 0.2 mg of

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Chlorella extract (named CGF) 5 hours after the incubation.

Figure 2: Effects of MMP1 level of Extract of Chlorella compared to Vit C after 5 hr incubation with PDGF-BB/Il1b

Il-1b+PDGF-BB CGF 0.15+IL-b GM6001 GM+IL-b Vit C Vit C+IL-b Basal MMP 0

10 20 30 40 50 60

5 hr incubation

MMP Level (ng/mL)

Effects of CGF and vit C and GM6001 (a specific MMP inhibitor) on induced MMP1 levels were compared. Vit C (125µM) had a less effect compared to 0.15 mg of CGF or GM6001 (0.4nM). GM6001 and Vit C themselves did not affect basal MMP1 level after 5 hr incubation.

Figure 3: Effects of MMP level of Extract of Chlorella compared to Vit C after 5 hr incubation with PMA

PMA CGF 0.2+PMA CGF 0.15+PMA GM6001 GM+PMA Vit C Vit C+PMA Basal MMP 0

10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

MMP Level (ng/mL)

MMP1 is a type of secreted proteins and its levels in cell culture medium were

measured induced after incubating with PMA (100nM). The increase was prevented

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by co-incubation of 0.15mg and 0.2 mg of CGF 5 hours after the incubation.

GM6001 also inhibited increased MMP1 under the same stimulation, whereas Vit C had a less effect on PMA-induced MMP1 level.

Figure 4: Effects of extract of Chlorella on basal TIMP1 level

con/4h 0.2CGF/4h 0.15CGF/4h con/6h 0.2CGF/6h 0.15CGF/6h

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Effects of acute hot water extract of Chlorella pyrenoidosa on basal TIMP 1 levels in human skin fibroblast 966SK cells

*

*p<0.05, t-test

TIMP (ng/mL)

mg/well mg/well

Basal TIMP1 levels were significantly higher in the cells co-culture with 0.2mg CGF for 6 hours compared to controls.

討論:

The extract of Chlorella (CGF) showed the capacities in preventing PDGF/Il-1b and PMA-induced MMP1 production in skin fibroblast (see figure 1). The preventing effects were compared with GM6001, an inhibitor of MMP, and Vit C, an anti-oxidant and a new component in cosmetic product. CGF had a similar effect as GM6001 in preventing MMP production, whereas Vit C showed a less effect. Neither CGF nor GM 6001 affected basal MMP1 levels. In addition, CGF increased basal TIMP-1 production after 6 hr incubation (see figure 4). The results show that CGF may provide a new and useful ingredient in preventing skin ageing in cosmetic industrial.

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數據

Figure 1: Effects of MMP1 level of Extract of Chlorella after 5 hr incubation with  MMP activators
Figure 2: Effects of MMP1 level of Extract of Chlorella compared to Vit C after 5 hr  incubation with PDGF-BB/Il1b
Figure 4: Effects of extract of Chlorella on basal TIMP1 level

參考文獻

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