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Application of Central Composite Design for the Determination of Exfoliating Agents in Cosmetics by Capillary Electrophoresis with Electroosmotic Flow Modulation

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Application of Central Composite Design

for the Determination of Exfoliating

Agents in Cosmetics by Capillary

Electrophoresis

with Electroosmotic Flow

Modulation

Yen Ling Chen*, Shiuh Jen Jiang2, Chia Hsien Feng3, Shih Wei Wang 4, Yi

Hui Lin1, Pei Yu Liu 3

1School of Pharmacy, College of Pharmacy, China Medical University,

Taichung, 40402, Taiwan

2Department of Chemistry, National Sun Yat-sen University, Kaohsiung

80424, Taiwan

3Department of Fragrance and Cosmetic Science, College of Pharmacy,

Kaohsiung

Medical University, Kaohsiung 807, Taiwan

4Department of Medicine, Mackay Medical College, Taipei 252, Taiwan

Correspondence:

Yen-Ling Chen, Ph.D., Assistant Professor.

Department of Fragrance and Cosmetic Science,

College of Pharmacy,

Kaohsiung Medical University,

Kaohsiung, Taiwan

E-mail:yelichen@kmu.edu.tw

Fax: 886-7-3210683

Tel: 886-7-3121101 ext. 2584

Page 1 of 33

URL: http://mc.manuscriptcentral.com/lanl E-mail: analyticalletters@email.wcu.edu

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Application of Central Composite Design

for the

Determination of Exfoliating Agents in

Cosmetics by

Capillary Electrophoresis

with

Electroosmotic Flow

Modulation

Yen Ling Chen*, Shiuh Jen Jiang2, Chia Hsien Feng3, Shih Wei Wang 4, Yi

Hui Lin1, Pei Yu Liu 3

ABSTRACT

Multivariate analysis within central composite design is applied to simplify the optimization procedure and explore the interactions among all experimental parameters in the field of analytical chemistry. In this study, central composite design is used to identify the optimal capillary electrophoresis conditions with electroosmotic flow modulation to assess the contents of seven exfoliating agents in cosmetics. The influences of the phosphate concentration, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration and methanol percentage on the response were evaluated by the use of the chromatographic exponential function. This strategy is based on the use of the chromatographic exponential

function as a response to simultaneously investigate the resolutions and separation times of 16 different CE conditions. By the use of statistical software, the optimized conditions were found to be as follows: 150mM phosphate solution (pH = 7) containing 0.5 mM

cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, 3 mM γ-CD and 25% methanol was used as the running buffer. To shorten the analysis time, an

electroosmotic flow modulating agent (cetyltrimethylammonium

bromide) was added to the separation buffer to reverse the EOF. During the method validation, the calibration plots were linear (r ≧ 0.998) with

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high precision and accuracy in the homemade cosmetic matrix. The exfoliating agent contents of two commercial cosmetic products were determined and quantified by the optimized CE conditions, and the results coincided well with the LC-MS results. This CE method is feasible for application to the detection and analysis of exfoliating agents in cosmetics.

Key words: Capillary electrophoresis; Central composite design; Chromatographic

exponential function; Exfoliating agents; Cosmetics.

INTRODUCTION

The rough outer layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, consists of several layers of flat, keratinized, non-nucleated cells and intercellular lipids. The stratum corneum serves as a barrier against damage by foreign substances and prevents transdermal water loss (Egelrud 2000). New stratum corneum cells are continuously produced by the basal layer. However, some diseases, such as xerosis,

ichthyosis, and acne, are caused by hyperkeratosis. To maintain a constant and normal stratum thickness, exfoliating agents are used to remove excess keratinocytes. The exfoliation process involves the detachment of corneocytes from one another by breaking the

desmosomes (corneosomes), which are the intercellular “rivets” that bind corneocytes together (Brysk 1992). Hydroxy acids, including alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, are the most common

exfoliating agents. Alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and mandelic acid, are the most popular agents, but salicylic acid, often considered a beta hydroxyl acid, is also widely used (Saint-Léger 2007). In addition to their use in clinical treatment, alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are widely applied in the cosmetics field to enhance stratum corneum desquamation for the purpose of improving the appearance of skin (Berardesca 1997). The pH of the cosmetic formulation varies with both the nature of the hydroxy acids and their concentrations (Elsner 2000). The concentration of hydroxy acids in cosmetic products is limited to less than 10%, and their pH values must be more than 3.5 to avoid skin irritation.According to the regulations that have been issued by the Taiwan Food and Drug Administration, the concentration limit of salicylic acid in cosmetic products is below2% to avoid salicylism (Chin 2007). To ensure the proper quality control of commercial cosmetic

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products and to minimize skin irritation due to the overuse of exfoliating agents, an analytical method that can qualitatively and quantitatively determine the exfoliating agents present in cosmetics is needed.

Capillary electrophoresis (CE) is a powerful separation technique that has enhanced the separation capabilities of a wide range of analytes in such fields as biology (Liu 2013, Zamfir 2013), environmental studies (Wang 2013), food science (Önal 2013), pharmaceuticals (Felix 2012), and cosmetic analysis (Liu 2012, Cheng 2012). The advantages of CE separation are the use of an automated system for precise quantitative analysis and the consumption of only a small amount of the reagent. Before the development of a successful analytical CE method, several factors should be considered, such as the electrolyte composition, concentration, and pH value, as well as the use of additives. The selectivity of CE can be manipulated by altering these parameters; however, traditional “one variable at a time” schemes are time consuming and fail to consider the interactions between factors (Dejaegher 2011). In recent years, experimental designs such as central composite designs and orthogonal methods have been widely applied for the optimization of CE (Bourdon 2013, Capella-Peiró 2006, Lamalle 2012, Li 2011, Liu 2006, Liu 2011) and HPLC (Acevska 2012, Kumar 2012) separation and extraction conditions (Ghambarian 2012, Ramandi 2011). A central composite design contains a two-level full factorial design, a star design, and twice as many center points to examine the factors. The points of the full factorial design are situated at the factor levels -1 and +1. The star points represent new extreme values (-α and +α) for each factor in the design (Hanrahan 2008). A central composite design is a powerful statistical tool for reducing the number of experiments required, evaluating the interactions between factors, and examining the global experimental domain. In this study, a central composite design was used to determine whether there was a significant change in the response at different factor levels.

The purpose of this study is to establish a simple and rapid CE method that can simultaneously analyze seven exfoliating agents and to determine their contents in cosmetic products using a central

composite design to acquire the optimized CE conditions. A homemade cosmetic matrix and a standard addition method were used to

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exfoliating agents in the cosmetic products.

EXPERIMENTAL

Chemicals and reagents

All chemicals were of analytical grade. The malic acid and mandelic acid were

purchased from Alfa Aesar (Ward Hill, MA, USA). The glycolic acid and lactic acid

were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (St. Louis, MO, USA). The tartaric acid, citric

acid, and salicylic acid were purchased from J. T. Baker (Phillipsburg, USA). The

sodium dihydrogen phosphate (NaH2PO4), hydrochloric acid (HCl),

sodium

hydroxide (NaOH), and cetyltrimethylammonium bromide were purchased from

Merck (Darmstadt, Germany). The fumaric acid, which was used as an internal

standard (IS), and γ-cyclodextrin were purchased from the Tokyo Chemical Industry

(Tokyo, Japan). Methanol (Mallinckrodt Baker, Phillipsburg, USA) was prepared as a

buffer additive. Double-distilled water prepared by a Milli-Q system (Millipore,

Bedford, MA, USA), which had a resistivity of 18.2 M_ cm at 25°C, was used to

prepare the buffer and related aqueous solutions. Sample I was a gel-type cosmetic

containing glycolic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid (NeoStrata Co., Princeton, USA),

and sample II was a liquid-type raw cosmetic material consisting of a complex of

alpha hydroxy acids containing glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and

tartaric acid (Pro More Trading Co., Taipei, Taiwan). None of the samples were

labeled with the amounts of the hydroxy acids.

Instrument

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array

detector was used. The study was performed using a fused-silica capillary (50 μm i.d.,

Polymicro Technologies, Phoenix, AZ, USA). The effective length to the detector was

40 cm, and the total length was 50.2 cm. The running buffer was set as a

phosphate/HCl solution (200 mM, pH = 7.0) containing 3 mM γ-CD, 0.5 mM

cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, and 25% methanol. The sample loading was

achieved by the application of pressure (0.5 psi, 20 s). The separation voltage was -15

kV (anode at the detector end), and the separation temperature was maintained at

25ºC. All operations, including the electropherogram acquisition, were computer-controlled, using the Beckman Coulter 32 Karat software system (Fullerton,

CA, USA). A Hitachi U-5100 Ratio Beam spectrophotometer (Hitachi, Tokyo, Japan)

was used for detection. The analyses were confirmed by LC-MS using a Waters 2695

liquid chromatography and a Waters Micromass ZQmass spectrometer (Waters

Corporation, MA, USA). All of the analyses were conducted using an electrospray

with a -15 kV probe. A Phenomenex Security Guard C-18 guard column and a

ZORBAX Eclipse XBD-C18 analytical column (2.1 × 100 mm, 3.5 m) were used.

The solvent gradient was composed of an acidified (0.1% formic acid) H2O/methanol

solution at a ratio of 100:0 for the first five minutes, after which it was ramped to

0:100 over 30 min. The flow rate was set at 0.2 mL/min.

Method validation

Stock solutions of the analytes were prepared in double-distilled water

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diluted by double-distilled water as reference standards. To simulate the commercial

cosmetic matrix and decrease the interference of the matrix, a homemade emulsion

was prepared by adding phase A, including 1,4-butylene glycol (2.5 g) as a humectant,

xanthan gum (0.05 g) as a thickening agent, and EDTA-2Na (0.05 g) as a preservative

agent, and phase B, including OLIVEM 800® (2 g) and OLIVEM 1000®

(0.5 g) as

emulsifiers, phenoxyethanol (0.25 g) as a preservative agent and other ingredients,

such as caprylic/capric triglyceride (2.5 g), cyclomethicone (1.5 g), and squalene (1.5

g), as emollient agents. The blank emulsion was prepared by premixing phase A and

phase B separately and heating each to 80°C. Phase A was added to phase B under

stirring until the solution was completely emulsified; then, it was cooled to room

temperature. The emulsification was stored at room temperature until it was used. The

emulsions with different concentrations of exfoliating agents were weighed (200 mg),

and 1 mL of methanol was added as an extraction solvent. The samples were

ultrasonicated for 30 min and centrifuged at 12,000 rpm for 10 min; then, 900 μL of

the supernatant was removed from each sample. After drying, the residue was

reconstituted in 1000 μL of double-distilled water. The reconstituted solution was

filtered through a 0.45 μm poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) filter (Millipore,

Bedford, MA, USA) for CE analysis. The quantitation ranges of the calibration curves

for the analytes in the cosmetic matrix were 0.18-1.8 mM for malic acid, 0.09-0.9 mM for tartaric acid, 0.36-3.6 mM for citric acid,

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0.045-0.45 mM for glycolic acid, 0.9

mM-9 mM for lactic acid, and 4.5-45 μM for both salicylic acid and mandelic acid.

The calibration curves were established, with the corrected peak area ratio of each

analyte to the IS as the ordinate (Y) and the concentration of each respective analyte

in mM as the abscissa (X). Three concentrations of each analyte were chosen for the

analysis of the precision and accuracy of the proposed method. The limits of detection

(LOD) and the limits of quantification (LOQ) were determined by decreasing the

concentration of each analyte until the ratios of signal to noise equaled 3 and 10,

respectively (sampling for 20 s at 0.5 psi).

Sample pretreatment

Two hundred milligrams of Sample I was dissolved in 1 mL of methanol under

ultrasonication for 30 min and was then centrifuged at 12,000 rpm for 10 min. The

900 μL of supernatant was evaporated in a centrifugal vaporizer (CVE 2000, EYELA,

Japan) and reconstituted with 1 mL of double-distilled water. The reconstituted

solution of Sample I and 200 μL of each untreated Sample I were filtered through a

0.45 μm PVDF filter and diluted to suitable concentrations for CE analysis. Further

extraction was conducted using solid phase extraction with a Strata C18-E instrument

(Phenomenex, CA, USA) and was necessary for LC-MS analysis due to the complex

matrices of cosmetic products that causes interference in MS detection. The SPE

cartridges were preconditioned with 3 mL each of MeOH and water. After loading the

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column. The

eluted solution containing the analytes was collected and diluted to a suitable

concentration for LC-MS analysis.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Preliminary experiments

The UV spectra of the seven exfoliating agents under optimized separation

conditions (200 mM phosphate buffer (pH = 7.0) with 3 mM γ-CD, 0.5 mM

cetyltrimethylammonium bromide and 25% methanol) were obtained using a

spectrophotometer. The wavelength of the maximum absorbance for all of the

analytes in 400 μM was 200 nm. Among them, salicylic acid and mandelic acid have

the highest absorbance values because of their benzene structures. To identify the

appropriate separation conditions, preliminary studies were developed with a

phosphate buffer and several buffer additives to shorten the total analysis time and

improve the separation resolution. Because the pKa values of the seven exfoliating

agents were all less than 5.13, the phosphate buffer (pH = 7.0) was chosen to achieve

a high buffer capacity and to afford all of the analytes as anionic compounds. The

native charges on the silanol groups in the capillary form a double layer counterion,

and mobile cations from a diffuse layer generate electroosmotic flow (EOF) towards

the cathode. Electroosmotic flow is the driving force for both ionic and non-ionic

analytes that can push the analytes migrating in the capillary under an applied voltage

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organic solvents

were used to manipulate the EOF by modifying the bonding of silica surface of the

capillaries. The cationic surfactant cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, used as an EOF

modulator, can be absorbed onto the capillary wall by the electrostatic attraction

between the positively charged ammonium moieties and the negatively charged

silanol groups. Above a 0.35 mM cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration, a

bilayer is formed, and the EOF is reversed (Terabe 1993). Methanol, as an organic

modifier, alters the electroosmotic flow and effective electrophoretic mobility of the

analytes. Therefore, the selectivity of the seven exfoliating agents could also be

improved by adding different amounts of methanol to the separation buffer. At the

same time, methanol may affect the interaction between the exfoliating agents and

γ-CD by altering the polarity of the separation buffer. Gamma-CD is usually used as a

chiral selector for an enantiomeric separation. However, γ-CD (1-5 mM) can

noticeably improve the separation efficiency in this study by altering the

electromobility of salicylic acid. Ultimately, 3 mM γ-CD was selected for use in

further studies.

Optimized results based on central composite design

Central composite design, which was the final optimization procedure, contained

16 runs with 2 center points and 3 factors (phosphate concentration, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration, and methanol concentration) with

significant influences on the preliminary experiments. Each factor was examined at

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five levels (-α, -1, 0, +1, +α), with α equal to (2f)1/4, where f is the

number of factors

in a rotatable circumscribed central composite design. If three factors are examined, α

is equal to 1.68. The central composite design established using five levels of the

three factors is shown in Table 1. The response factors were calculated using the

chromatographic exponential function, which was created by Morris et al. in 1996 to

simultaneously investigate the resolution and duration of electrophoretic separation

(eq. 1) (Morris 1996).

In eq. 1, Ri is the resolution between two contiguous peaks, Ropt is the

optimized

resolution and was set at 1.5, and n is the expected number of peaks. Moreover, tf is

the migration time of the final peak, tmax is the expected maximum

analysis time,

which was set at 20 min, and a is a factor for the slope adjustment. When a was higher,

the results depended more strongly on the resolution. Because the resolution was

more important than the analysis time in this study, a was set to 2. A lower

chromatographic exponential function value indicates that the results are closer to the

desired conditions, and the final objective of the optimization procedure is to

minimize the chromatographic exponential function. From the electropherograms of

runs 8, 9 and 14 (data are shown in Figure 1), we can observe that a lower value of the

chromatographic exponential function corresponds to higher resolution between each

peak. Figure 2 presents the three-dimensional response surface of the chromatographic exponential function obtained from JMP software as a function of

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factors. The chromatographic exponential function plotted against the phosphate

concentration and the cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration is shown in

Figure 2 (A). When the cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration decreased

from 1.5 to 0.5 mM, the chromatographic exponential function decreased for all

phosphate concentrations. An increase in the phosphate concentration from 150 to 250

mM resulted in an increase of the chromatographic exponential function when the

cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentration was fixed at 0.5 mM. In Figure 2 (B),

the effect of altering the methanol concentration and the cetyltrimethylammonium

bromide concentration on the chromatographic exponential function response can be

observed. When the percentage of methanol was maintained at a constant 22.6%, the

lowest value of the chromatographic exponential function at various cetyltrimethylammonium bromide concentrations can be observed. Figure 2 (C)

shows the chromatographic exponential function response plotted against the

methanol and phosphate concentrations. Samples with a 22.6% methanol

concentration with various phosphate concentrations have the lowest values of

chromatographic exponential function on the response surface. Meanwhile, it can be

observed that an increase in the phosphate concentration from 150 to 250 mM

resulted in an increase of the chromatographic exponential function value. To

minimize the response, it was necessary to use a low cetyltrimethylammonium

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moderate methanol

concentration. From the central composite design results, 150 mM phosphate, 0.5 mM

cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, and 22.6% methanol were predicted as the optimal

conditions. However, the peaks of citric acid and glycolic acid achieved baseline

separation at a methanol concentration of up to 25% (results are shown in Figure 3).

Therefore, the optimized conditions with 150 mM phosphate, 0.5 mM cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, and 25% methanol were obtained after a slight

revision. To minimize the migration time and improve the peak shape for salicylic

acid and mandelic acid, the separation voltage was adjusted to -15 kV, and the total

analysis time was less than 12 min. In this study, we analyzed seven exfoliating agents

in a homemade cosmetic emulsion after sample pretreatment to simulate a real

cosmetic sample and observe whether any interference peaks appeared. The

electropherogram of the seven exfoliating agents separated by the optimized CE

conditions is shown in Figure 4. Separation efficiencies are usually represented by the

number of theoretical plates. We calculated the number of theoretical plates for all the

peaks in the Figure 4. The number of theoretical plates reached 1.3×105 plates for

malic acid, 1.5×105 plates for tartaric acid, 1.4×105 plates for glycolic

acid, 1.8×105

plates for citric acid, 9.7×104 plates for lactic acid, 1.1×105 plates for

salicylic acid

and 1.2×105 plates for mandelic acid, and all showed good separation

efficiencies.

Acquiring the predicted optimized conditions by using the responses of only sixteen

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runs in a central composite design was less time consuming and had a low

experimental cost. The interactions between the experimental parameters and the

responses were also modeled in this study.

Method validation using a homemade cosmetic

emulsion

To evaluate the quantitative applicability of the established CE method in cosmetic

samples, five different concentrations of seven exfoliating agents were analyzed using

fumaric acid (50 μM) acting as an IS to calculate the peak area ratios via dividing the

corrected peak areas of each analyte. The corrected peak area that was used with the

standard was calculated as follows: (peak area of an analyte/migration time of the

analyte) divided by the (peak area of the IS/migration time of the IS). Calibration

curves were obtained from linear peak area ratios with the X axis as concentration and

the Y axis as peak area ratios. Table 2 shows the regression equations with high

linearities, and the correlation coefficient (r) of each curve was greater than 0.998 (n =

3). The LODs were 625 nM for mandelic acid and salicylic acid, 12.5 μM for citric

acid and tartaric acid, 25 μM for malic acid, 100 μM for glycolic acid and 125 μM for

lactic acid (S/N = 3; 0.5 psi, 20 s injection). The LOQs were 2 μM for mandelic acid

and salicylic acid, 40 μM for citric acid and tartaric acid, 75 μM for malic acid, 400

μM for glycolic acid and 900 μM for lactic acid (S/N = 10; 0.5 psi, 20 s injection).

The relative standard deviations (RSDs) and relative errors (REs) were calculated on

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acid (at levels of

0.1, 0.5 and 0.8 mM), glycolic acid (at levels of 0.4, 2.0 and 3.2 mM), citric acid (at

levels of 0.05, 0.25 and 0.40 mM), lactic acid (at levels of 1.0, 5.0 and 8.0 mM),

mandelic acid and salicylic acid (each at levels of 0.005, 0.025 and 0.040 mM). The

results indicated that the RSD and RE values were less than 9.23% (data shown in

Table 2). Lower RSDs and REs indicate that the developed method could estimate the

concentration values with good accuracy and precision in a homemade cosmetic

emulsion using this CE method.

Application

Two commercial products (Samples I and II) were subjected to quality control

analysis using the central composite design-optimized CE conditions. The

electropherograms obtained from the analysis of Samples I and II are shown in Fig. 5.

Standard addition was used to quantify the exfoliating agents in the commercial

products instead of a calibration curve of standards to avoid the matrix effect issue.

The recoveries of this method were briefly studied by spiking and mixing the

commercial products with known amounts of all analytes. The analytical results

indicate that the recoveries of the method are all above 95%. The exfoliating agent

contents were 0.34% glycolic acid, 0.21% citric acid, and 0.39% lactic acid in Sample

I; and 0.55% malic acid, 0.60% tartaric acid, 12.64% glycolic acid, 2.01% citric acid,

and 10.63% lactic acid in Sample II. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry

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laboratories, especially in

the fields of pharmacology, drug discovery, and qualitative and quantitative analysis.

To identify these commercial cosmetic products containing several exfoliating agents,

LC-MS was used as tool for further verification. All analyses had similar retention

times with very poor resolution because of the high polarity of the samples. However,

the MS spectra of the seven exfoliating agent standards in the negative ionization

mode showed the formation of [M-H]

-.[M-H]- ions with m/z values of 133.1 for malic acid, 149.1 for tartaric

acid, 75.2 for glycolic acid, 191.1 for citric acid, 89.2 for lactic acid, 137.1 for salicylic acid, and 151.1 for mandelic acid. To avoid

interference in the LC-MS detection from the complicated sample matrix characteristic of cosmetics, solid phase extraction was applied to exclude some hydrophobic compounds by directly loading the sample without washing and eluting procedures. The characteristic peaks in the MS spectra in the negative ionization mode for Sample I, containing glycolic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, and Sample II, containing malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, were clearly identified (data were not shown). Based on these results, the proposed CE method was established to be suitable for the determination of the exfoliating agents in cosmetic products.

CONCLUSIONS

A simple, efficient and fast analytical method based on capillary electrophoresis has

been developed and optimized for the determination of seven exfoliating agents in

cosmetic products using central composite design. Statistical experimental design

techniques such as central composite design are useful for studying the effects of

factors and the interactions between factors. The chromatographic exponential

function was used as the response variable for the optimization of the CE conditions,

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which can be optimized efficiently with a minimal amount of experimentation. This

method has been successfully established and applied to the quantification of

exfoliating agents in commercial cosmetic products.

We gratefully acknowledge the support of the National Science Council of Taiwan

and the NSUSU-KMU Joint Research Project (#NSYSUKMU 102-P015) for funding

this work.

The authors have declared no conflict of interest

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