研究建議

一、快速流行定位不一定對每個品牌有利

快速流行定位的確讓 Zara 建立起競爭優勢，但是最重要的是它的整個策略活 動的目標都一致地支持快速回應、模仿式創新以達到高存貨週轉率與高毛利率。

高存貨週轉率與高毛利率的經營成果固然吸引其它同業興起仿傚之意，但不是每 一種類型的服飾零售品牌或廠商都能夠輕易地複製 Zara 的經營模式。快速流行 定位也不是對每一個品牌都有利。應考慮目標顧客追求流行的程度、對產品品質 的期待以及預期的使用次數(預期購買服飾後到丟棄服飾的時間有多長)，以及內 部的資源條件是否支持品牌將前置時間降到最低以加快產品更新速度與降低存 貨。

如果當目標消費者最注重的不是產品的流行程度，而是在意產品的高品質、稀 少性、設計的原創性、以及品牌所象徵的社會地位等等，那麼投注大量資源來縮 短前置時間，快速地不斷推出新產品不一定有利。第一、加快產品推陳出新跟讓 現有顧客群提高購買頻率無直接關聯，而可能傳達「設計品質低劣」的訊息給現 有顧客群，進而因為銷貨速度跟不上生產速度而產生過多的存貨，讓產品淪於打 折求售，降低目標顧客群對品牌價值的認知。第二、如果訂價無法降低，那麼就 無法吸引大眾消費者；相反地如果降低訂價則有可能會失去現有消費者。第三、

高週轉率不一定對長期品牌形象有益，高週轉率與塑造產品稀少性的形象相抵 觸。短期間消費者可能還無法察覺，但一旦品牌為了追求高週轉率而從事許多促 銷活動，將會模糊掉原本的定位，且還不一定能吸引到其它消費者族群。

二、需注意消費者關注因素與競爭者動態

精英流行品牌的經營者當然早有先見與智慧明白不能將定位模糊掉，就算稱讚 Zara 是全球最有創意的零售商，也決不會去模仿快速流行的經營模式。再者兩者

的目標顧客不是同一族群，Zara 的出現對於這些定位為精英流行的品牌實在沒有 多大的衝擊。影響最大的莫過於目標顧客群一樣是大眾市場的中價位品牌。現有 中價位品牌絕對可以因為採行快速流行的理念而獲益。只是礙於缺乏分配(Lack of separation)、時間的壓縮性(Time Compression)、大量資源效(Mass Asset Efficiency)等因素而造成策略因子市場的不完全競爭，其他當初認為只應該發展 設計、零售等重點策略活動的競爭者，實踐快速流行的方法一定是無法馬上達到 Inditex 的效率，如 H&M。但是 Inditex 應該注意 H&M 即使沒有上下整合的供應 鏈，生產全部都是外包給歐洲以外的代工廠，卻還是能壓縮前置時間到三個禮 拜，與 Inditex 的兩個禮拜相差不遠，且消費者真的那麼在乎那ㄧ個禮拜嗎？這 一點值得觀察。另外 Inditex 也應該注意消費者對其品質的感受是其宣稱的中等 品質有差距。

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附錄

一、Zara 歷年淨銷售額及 EBIT 與各占集團營收比例 項目/

年度

淨銷售額 (Sales)

占集團比率 項目/

年度

稅前盈餘 (EBIT)

占集團比率

2001 2,435.1 74.9% 2001 440,700 85.2%

2002 2,913,400 73.3% 2002 540,400 81.9%

2003 3,219,600 70% 2003 476,000 75.9%

2004 3,759,700 67.5% 2004 654,200 71.0%

2005 4,440,800 65.9% 2005 712,100 65.1%

資料來源：本研究整理自 Inditex 年報

二、Zara 的營運總部 A Coruna

圖：西班牙加里西亞地區與北葡萄牙

來源The Fashion Industry in Galicia: Understanding the ‘Zara’ Phenomenon, ARTURO REVILLA BONNIN. European Planning Studies, Vol. 10, No. 4, 2002